Highly nutritious and once affordable to all, collard greens are vanishing from kitchen gardens due to a bevy of pests and soaring temperatures

Anantnag, Jammu and Kashmir: "Yi gov kheer [This is too much],” frets Hajira Begum (60) of Achabal, when a vegetable vendor in Anantnag town tells her that haakh (collard greens) costs Rs 120 per kg. For the first time in decades, Hajira is buying haakh from the market.

“We could cultivate it in plenty, but leaf disease affected our crop in the last three years. Last year, it was so severe that we had to pull out the plants and discard them,” she says, recalling how she would give away the greens to neighbours when haakh thrived in her household.

The price of haakh, which used to cost between Rs 30 and 60 until 2022, is gradually increasing. According to Hajira, the vendors of Achabal have stopped selling this Kashmiri staple as “it is too costly now”.  

A local report suggests that haakh production has dropped by 70% last year, causing supply shortage and pushing prices up. “Pests such as Brevicoryne brassicae (cabbage aphid), Plutella xylostella (diamondback moth) and Pieris brassicae (cabbage butterfly) are increasingly attacking haakh. They are highly responsive to elevated temperatures,” Dr Barkat Hussain, entomology expert and faculty member, Sher-e-Kashmir University of Agricultural Sciences and Technology (SKUAST)-Kashmir, tells 101Reporters.

Brevicoryne brassicae transmits Turnip mosaic virus, which leads to leaf distortion and necrosis, especially on the lower leaves of turnip. The larvae of Plutella xylostella and Pieris brassicae feed on leaves, leading to small holes, skeletonised leaves and irregular patches. Severe defoliation reduces photosynthesis and causes stunting. 

Besides regular crop monitoring, Dr Hussain suggests use of biological controls (Bacillus thuringiensis, for example) and application of organic remedies such as neem oil or wood ash to reduce infestation.

Kawadar haakh plant (Photo - Mohammad Aatif Ammad Kanth, 101Reporters)

Adverse factors

Haakh cannot be grown in the hottest months of June-July and the winter months of December-February. It grows better in cooler climates. "Snow plays a crucial role as it maintains soil moisture and regulates water levels in the land throughout the year," says Dr Hussain. According to him, the ideal temperature for growing haakh is from 0-30 degree Celsius.  

Notably, Kashmir experienced one of its highest recorded temperatures in 25 years, when mercury touched 36 degree Celsius on July 28 last year. This favoured pest infestation in haakh.

Once the seeds sprout and emerge above the ground 10 days after they are sown, the crop needs to be watered weekly. It usually takes two months to mature to the harvesting stage. Once the stem has produced all its leaves and the haakh season has ended, farmers replant the stem in March-April. It then develops flowers, which eventually transform into pea-like pods from which seeds are extracted in June-July and stored for further use.

Haakh at the fruits and vegetables mandi in Anantnag, ready to be distributed to vendors for sale (Photo - Mohammad Aatif Ammad Kanth, 101Reporters)

Apart from pest attacks and rising temperature, unplanned urbanisation has also been gradually contributing to the haakh supply crisis. Lal Chowk, Natipora, Hyderpora, Rajbagh, Nowgam, Dangarpora, Dargah area, Chattabal, Batamaloo and Bemina were once hubs of haakh cultivation. Now they have turned into urban hotspots, witnessing significant changes in land use and land cover. Over the last 20 years, Srinagar has undergone the highest land use and land cover change from agricultural land to residential land, driven by rapid urbanisation, population growth, migration and tourism.

A research article titled Spatiotemporal analysis of urban expansion in Srinagar city, Kashmir, reveals that Srinagar city's built-up area expanded from 34.53 km² in 2000 to 60.63 km² in 2020. The percentage of built-up area rose from 13.35% in 2000 to 23.44% in 2020, marking a 75.58% increase.

Another threat to haakh is the preference among the youth for hyper-processed food items. “Kashmiris need to understand that they have to protect their local food supply chain by buying and consuming local food varieties,” says Dr Samina Raja, Director, Food Systems Planning and Healthy Communities Lab, School of Architecture and Planning, University at Buffalo (UB) Food Lab. She heads the collaborative research on haakh at SKUAST-K and UB.

Houses emerge amidst lush green haakh fields in Srinagar, reflecting the impact of urbanization and the encroachment of construction on haakh fields (Photo - Mohammad Aatif Ammad Kanth, 101Reporters)

Fading organic glory

Fayaz Ahmed (35) from Kawdara in Srinagar has been exclusively growing the Kawdara variety of haakh on his three kanal plot for a decade. “Pests used to attack the crop even in the initial days of my haakh cultivation, but not in a big way as we are seeing now. Until about three years ago, I used only natural fertilisers such as cow dung on the plants. Pesticides were never a part of our cultivation practices,” says Ahmed.

"Now, we have no choice but to rely on fertilisers and pesticides. If we do not, we will suffer huge losses," he laments, reflecting the challenges faced by farmers.

“I have never ever seen such massive piles of haakh being destroyed," exclaims Kawdara-based Mohammad Sultan (60), who cultivates the Kawdara variety.

"Haakh is the only crop that I grow," states Abdul Sattar (70) from Khanyar in Srinagar. He has been dedicated to the crop ever since he dropped out of school at the age of 16. Despite the challenges that pests pose, Sattar remains committed to growing haakh. "I will keep growing the crop, but I think we will have to rely more on pesticides in the years to come," he says.  

The household savings of both Ahmed and Sultan have diminished in recent years due to crop loss. "We used to save around Rs 1 lakh annually after covering all household expenses. However, in the last few years, we have barely managed to save anything," they say in unison.

Farmers commonly use chlorpyrifos, dimethoate, cyhalothrin, cypermethrin, deltamethrin and chlorothalonil to keep pests at bay. "The increased attacks mean we have to use chemicals two to three times a year," admits Ahmed. 

These chemicals are primarily used between May and October, as haakh is more vulnerable to attacks during the warmer months. Interestingly, no official recommendations guide their use as there is a huge communication gap between haakh farmers and agriculture officials. Farmers have learnt about these chemicals through word of mouth and the internet.

However, Chowdhary Iqbal, Director (Agriculture), Kashmir, claims otherwise. "Farmers have increasingly complained about pest infestations on collard leaves. The department is closely monitoring the situation... We will bring haakh under the Per Drop More Crop initiative to tackle water shortages in its cultivation. This would reduce the adverse effects of less snowfall and rising temperatures on haakh production,” Iqbal says.

On the other hand, farmers claim that they have not received any training from the agriculture department to deal with the diseases. "The department officials never approached us, even though we have raised an alarm," claims Ahmed.

Meanwhile, Dr Shakeel Wani, a resident doctor at Government Medical College, Srinagar, tells 101Reporters that the long-term use of pesticides poses serious health risks. "These include neurological issues [memory loss, tremors, seizures], hormonal disruptions, reproductive health problems, respiratory irritation and organ damage. Chlorothalonil, a possible carcinogen, may increase cancer risk. Pesticide residues in food can accumulate, leading to immune suppression, endocrine issues and chronic illnesses. Vulnerable groups like children, pregnant women and those with health conditions face higher risks. The chemicals also contaminate soil and water," he explains.

Haakh displayed alongside other vegetables at Ghulam Nabi's shop (Photo - Mohammad Aatif Ammad Kanth, 101Reporters)

Poor man’s refuge

Assi gassi haakh batti aasun (if we have haakh and rice, we will manage everything else) is a well-known Kashmiri proverb reflecting the integral role of green collards in local life. Regardless of how much or how little land a family owns, it is common to see a portion of the garden dedicated to haakh. Even in urban households with garden space, it is often the first crop to be planted.

There is much diversity in the crop with prominent regional varieties being Khanyari, Kawdar, Dal and Heaz haakh, while there are seasonal ones like Wande and Monji haakh. Other distinctive varieties include Waste, Cxari, Dreat and Kanel haakh. There is much diversity in the dishes prepared as well. Cheti haakh (a mashed preparation), Cxati haakh (without any other vegetable), Mongi haakh (cooked with collard stems), Gaadi haakh (with fish), Wazwan haakh (made by traditional cooks for weddings), Nadir haakh (with lotus stem) and Pew haakh (made from small-sized collard leaves) show the versatility of haakh in Kashmiri cuisine. 

Pew Haakh, a specialty dish made from haakh with tender, small leaves (Photo - Mohammad Aatif Ammad Kanth, 101Reporters)

Zuhaib Rashid Bagroo, an Economics fellow at Ashoka University, tells 101Reporters how the decline in haakh production will affect the households, especially of the poor. “They either grew haakh on their own or bought it from the market at low prices until recently. When both these options are affected, households will see higher spending on food and reduced savings.”

Bagroo adds that sustained high prices may force poor households to reduce consumption, which would influence their nutritional status. “This would not be a good sign at all,” he remarks.

A 2022 research reveals that households cultivating haakh consume it four times a week, significantly contributing to food security in the region. 

Researchers at SKUAST-K have attested the leafy green’s remarkable health benefits. Their studies highlight that haakh is rich in vitamin E and C, and antioxidants that reduce cancer risk. This is noteworthy as Jammu and Kashmir has reported over 80,000 cancer cases in the last six years, with an annual increase of 2.7%. 

Dr Khalid Zaffar Masoodi, a Junior Scientist and Associate Professor at SKUAST-K, tells 101Reporters that 72 genotypes of haakh from different parts of Kashmir have been examined as part of the collaborative effort with UB. “The findings indicate that most genotypes are rich in antioxidants, making them effective against lung, prostate and skin cancer. We found that haakh is an excellent source of phenols and nutraceuticals as well,” he says.  

“For generations, hakeems [herbal medicine practitioners] have been using it for treating uric acid-related problems and stomach issues,” informs historian and poet Zareef Ahmed Zareef, who writes poems extolling the vegetable under the UB’s public health campaign. The aim is to draw Kashmiris’ attention to the public health potential of haakh in ways that a scientific journal article cannot.

This story was produced as a part of NCNF Media Fellowship on Agroecology.

Edited by Rekha Pulinnoli

Cover Photo - Fayaz Ahmed tending to his field, removing the damaged leaves from haakh plants (Photo - Mohammad Aatif Ammad Kanth, 101Reporters)